Wellington
We decided that we needed a break from all of the camping and got a room share in Wellington for about the same price. Once we got to the house and checked out the room I realized that I have been changed a little by the trip. Our room had two twin beds pushed together, but it was not te cleanest. We also had the use of a gross refrigirator and microwave. I loved sleeping in a bed, but overall I prefer to sleep in a tent, but cook and shower in facilities that are cleaned daily. I never thought that I would feel that way, but bed does not trump cleanliness. (and its not as if the place was filthy, imagine college living 'clean'). As a separate bonus Mike was able to renegotiate our rate for an additional night, and we suspect that the owner stole one of our spoons as payback! I'm not even joking about this, the spoon was on the counter and 2 hours later it wasn't.
Wellington gave me a proper dose of the city, which I needed badly! It has a completely SF vibe to it. Even the look of the city is very SF. Houses are built in an older style, and painted different colors, they have a trolley, and there is a more bohemian vibe to everything. Mike and I just happened to arrive during the "New Zealand" festival and walk into a performance art section that was on the water and housed in shipping containers (Kiwis love to use shipping containers for things). The coolest thing in the art shipping containers was a 2 story installation. The second story houses a bathtub on display. People strip down to their underwear and sit in the warm water. The tub is overfilled so that it would leak through the foorboards down to the first story level. There are clear ponchos available and you cn put them on and stand in th "rain" created by the tub.
There were other installations there, some were light and some were sound. There was an exhibit where people would be measured for "joy". It all gave off a BM vibe and apparently one of the light installations was from kiwi burn (but it was not as cool as some of the other ones). There was also a stage made out of a shipping container and there was live music by local bands and singers there. Walking around that area really grounded me a little. It was such a cool scene. I was told and one of the pubs there there was also an exhibit which was part flash mob, part silent disco. Random people are given headphones and have to follow instructions that no one else can hear. It seemed that the people with the headphones were instructed to move in the same way, so they became a silent instant flash mob, but Mike and I didn't see it.
One of the other days that we were in the city we had a nice brunch and then did what they call the hidden art tour. Basically you download a google map of locations and go into public buildings to see anything from bronze sculptures, to grafitti, to an underground ship that became moored and incorporated into the city as the warf was extended out. (+olga shafran very similar to the streeterville story). My favorite thing that we saw was had to be the exhibit of doctor tools from the early 1900s. They were on display at a bar called GP (general practiioner). I talked to the bartender, and he basically gave me the story of the building from a time it was a dctors office to when it was a "cathouse" to it's current state. I will admit that I thought that a cathouse was like a kennel for cats, which really embarassed the bartender, and which Mike found to be absolutely hilarious.
My last story about Wellington is about the homeless. There are a lot of them in the city. It's just one more way that it reminds me of SF. Most of the homelss are pretty crazy, but the ones that aren't are very nice and helpful. Our first night strolling the streets we saw a homeless man talking to a foreign backpacker girl, and I suspected that he was bothering her. It turned out that he was giving her a tour of the city and even showing her the art displays I mentioned earlier. Another time, Mike and I were looking at a wall of graffiti and a couple of homeless guys suggested that we go around to the other side to see more. I mentally placed the odds at 50/50 that their friends will be there to mug and beat us, but nope, just the awesome graffiti that was promised to us. I guess I'm a little jaded....
We had a final night of camping in NZ on our way up to Auckland at a campground that had a contraption named "The Flying Fox" which was basically a zipline for kids. I love all of the BM reminders that we keep running into. In a way, it makes me feel more connected with all of my friends.
Auckland
On our way to Auckland we had a very important stop, a repeat of our first hike three months before. The first time around I wanted to throw myself off the path and die multiple times. I needed to take brakes pretty often, and both Mike and I realized that we were in need of some training. The hike took us 3 hours and I was pretty exhausted when it was done. This time around we finished it in 2 hours! Not only that, but I have done much harder hikes recently. What a birthday present to realize how much more fit I am! As an added bonus, the hike let me break in my new hiking boots (a b-day present from Mike) and they were perfect! As we were driving back to the city, we saw waves of sheep running on sides of hills chased by sheepdogs. I know it's stupid, but I thought it was the coolest thing. We just fullled over to the side of the road and watched the dogs work.
When we finally got into town we saw Steve and Olichka's new home. It is absolutely beautiful, and well worth the 5 month search. They have a view of a sunset over Auckland and the ocean from their bedroom window, which is amazing. It didn't really hit me that we were leaving until I got to the city. On one hand, I was really excited to finally go to Australia and get to the place we have been working towards for so long, but I was very sad to leave New Zealand. NZ is a very beautiful country, and I am going to miss it. We have had so many adventures there and made so many wonderful memories, that it will always have a special place in my heart.
I also wanted to say a few words about Olichka and Steve. They were unbelievable hosts! They put so much thought into hosting us and made our lives so much easier that I can't even begin to describe. They drove us to and from the airport at ridiculous times, they bought us phone cards before our arrival, they lent us guidebooks and set us up with places to live. They spent their hard earned vacation time hanging out with us, and Olichka let us borrow her car for 3 whole months, among other very very kind thoughtful and generouos acts. I only hope that one day we will be able to recipricate the huge favor. Part of why NZ will always be special to me, is because they live there.
We spent our last couple of days catching up with friends and making OZ plan during the day and hanging with Steve and Olichka at night. Olichka surprised us with a "pump" class one of the days, so that we could really feel the burn. I was really scared to go, but found that it was a lot of fun altough I was sore for 4 days afterward. Neither Mike or I slept our last night on NZ soil, but the night couldn't last forever, and so the first leg of our journey was completed.
Final Personal Thoughts
I learned a lot in the last three months, and I'm still processing some of it. Recently I have been struggling a little because in my regular life I'm a leader at work, so I have been comfortable not always being on at home. I was used to knowing what the right thing in any situation is, and not needing anyone in order to act. At this point in the trip, with us spending so much time in nature, and with me not working, I feel a little out of balance. I am often wrong, or don't know how to proceed with something. I have learned that I am an experienced tourist, but not always a knowledgeable traveller. I have learned that there are times when I won't know what to do, and I am trying to be OK in that role. I find that I am trying to compete with Mike physically (in our exersice regimen) which is stupid, but I have no one else to compete with, and apparently I need that. I feel that the experince has been humbling, but I don't think its a bad thing for me to be taken down a notch or two by life. I will try to remember this feeling when I am again in the role of a teacher or a mentor. I will try to be more compasionate and patient. I don't promise miracles, but maybe I can keep some of this inside and change my perspective a little.
I also learned that travelling as a couple can be lonely. Mke and I don't really talk to many people. We don't really fit in with the backpackers, or the families. Since we are camping, we don't stay in hostels and meet new people. Sometimes we are too much for each other, but when we have separate days we spend them alone. I think he is more OK with it than I am. I need alone time, but I also need people besides Mike in my life. I think that this is a good thing, but it makes travel harder for me. It makes me miss all of my friends and family more than I tought I did.
I have become less "girly". I dont wear dresses or skirts unless I'm in a city now. I have only worn makeup twice since we have started our travels. I don't blowdry my hair. Some people would find that to be a release, but more and more I miss these routines. It is one of the reasons that I feel a little out of balance in my own skin. It's a weird feeling, I can no longer predict how I will feel about something. It's a little unnerving.
I have embraced activity and the outdoors. I jog and I hike and I walk. I have not really watched TV for months. I tried one day in Auckland, and just could not stomach it. I spend most of my time outdoors. I also don't have a space that is entirely my own. I am without a cave or retreat. I can't run away to recharge anymore. Life is completely different for me now. In some ways its liberating, and in some binding. Since Mike and I travel together, no decision is enirely our own. We have to plan routes, shop for food, even make bathroom stops together. No research that I have done has prepared me for this. On one hand its a deeper form of intimacy, but on the other it can be frusterating.
I will finish by saying that none of this is bad. I am not making judgements for the most part. I am just trying to document how I feel. I like the challange of the unfamiiar road. I think all of these thoughts are very good for me. I hope that as a result, I will become a deeper, more interesting, and a more compassionate person (even a little bit)
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